Florence (Firenze)

Ben and I have decided that Florence is the city of large wooden, carved doors and door knockers! We have been inspired and someday when we have a home of our own we too will get a great door knocker. Maybe a lion head or a beautiful flower.

Our time here was lovely. We used Florence as a way to do some day trips nearby (Bologna and San Gimangio) as well as to enjoy the city itself. We stayed with a kind Italian man close to the train station who lent out his x2 spare rooms for some extra money.

Our first night we ventured off into the city and discovered the great Dumo— the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. Incredible. I have seen photos of the skyline of Florence where you can’t miss this great masterpiece and thought I knew what to expect. Not at all. It is made with green, white and pink marble with ornate twisting designs, massive doors, carved statues and of course is absolutely massive. It holds the world’s largest masonry dome still today. This project was started in 1296 and completed in 1469 by many men. The credit of the dome and its design mainly goes to Brunelleshi — if you are more interested definitely look up how he completed this feat–it’s quite fascinating. We did not end up getting to go inside which was a bummer but if we are ever back here that would be a must!

While in Florence we enjoyed some incredible food. Probably our best meal to date was on our first night in the city. We stumbled into “Osteria Antica Casa Torre” (Ancient Tower House Inn). It was a little brick place, cozy and busy. We were led up the stairs to the open mezzanine and seated at a small table in the back. Ben and I split a pesto and tomato ravioli and then we each got a main– Ben’s was a steak fillet with a side of roasted potatoes and mine was beef stew. From then on Ben has been ordering a side of potatoes trying to recreate that experience and nothing has done it for him quite like those attic potatoes. Dinner was absolutely divine– my beef was so tender it fell apart like butter melting on hot bread. The Sangiovese Merlot was also a prefect pair with dinner and possibly the best wine I have ever had.

On our full Florence day we visited Mosaico Church. I sat next to a girl who was studying abroad from my alma mater and was a fellow Ashbrook scholar! Small world! After church we explored the bridges and roamed the streets. There was lots of color and artwork on the walls everywhere you looked. Lots of little cafes and wine bars. We explored our first real Italian market — a whole piazza of vendors with leather coats and Barbour jackets, funky jewelry, purses and designer shoes, art and of course 100% Italian cashmere!! I might have enjoyed this one the most.

The main bridge in Florence has as pictured shops built into it as well as a corridor ordered by the Medici family who wanted to get across with out having to walk with “commoners.” Walking across it seemed odd that the only shops on this bridge seemed to be jewelry vendors — quite a contrast to both the before and after of the bridge full of restaurants, clothing and boutique shops..etc. Supposedly this is because in 1593 the Grand Duke Fernando I de’Medici decreed that the butchers and other vendors must leave, as they made too much noise, and were to be replaced with goldsmiths and jewelers. Needless to say we did not purchase anything on the Ponte Vecchio.

We visited the Piazzale delgi Uffizi and found some of the great renaissance men lording over the square. Ben was particularly excited about Machiavelli and he had started reading “The Prince” that day.

Then through to the Piazza della Signoria to find some insane sculptures.

Incredible talent – to see in marble the details of veins, muscle flexing and emotion is something else. The sad, masculine visual of the Abduction of the Sabine Women as well as the powerful Perseus with the head of Medusa were moving and beautiful.

On our way out–we stopped at our friend Walt’s favorite cafe from his Study Abroad. Fire suggestion – the pan au chocolate was delicious.

We had a wonderful time. Arrividerci for now!

Off to Cinque Terre !